Have you ever wanted to dine at Spargo's in L.A. but felt that it was too expensive or perhaps you didn't want to drive there? Well, you're in luck!!! Wolfgang Puck Cafe recently opened in the Ontario Mills mall. The fine restaurant offers excellent value for your money and a very pleasant, warm atmosphere, which is humming at lunch time and in the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday nights before customers head to the movies.

Seating is inside or out-your choice. No expense has been spared in the decor, down to the selection of the dishes imported from England.

The cuisine is a sure bet and is based on the quality of the raw materials, the presentation, and, more importantly, the imagination in dining. I sampled many dishes, which I highly recommend. For appetizers, I tried the barbecue duck quesadilla ($6.95); vegetable spring rolls ($6.95); Puck's Pucks ($10.95), which is crab and more crab, whole grain mustard caper sauce and arugula salad; and grilled marinated chicken satay ($7.50) served with curry ginger marinade, Thai chili peanut sauce and cucumber salad.

Appetizers and all the dishes are served with wonderful bread selections. The butternut squash soup ($4.95) is a must if you care for a soup instead of a salad. However, the Chinois chicken salad, with spicy honey mustard dressing ($8.95) is a house favorite and the most asked for dish besides their famous pizza.

The spicy shrimp pizza was the best. For entrees, I tried the grilled swordfish ($16.95) with warm dijon vinaigrette and horseradish mashed potatoes-the best swordfish I have ever tasted.

Other entrees were rotisserie rosemary chicken ($10.95), with a choice of garlic mashed potatoes, French fries or Caesar salad; rotisserie barbecue chicken ($10.95) with the same selections of side dishes;grilled Norwegian salmon ($15.95); and ground sirloin burger ($8.95). Pastas and Pad Thai selections are also offered, which were excellent. Desserts are truly delicious and a specialty here.

Try the warm chocolate- souffle cake, meringue key lime pie or vanilla-creme brulee with a chocolate biscotti cup. All desserts are $4.95. Service is attentive and caring, and part-owner and General Manager Tony Husain's presence guarantees everything goes smoothly.

The atmosphere is friendly, and customers in jeans mix comfortably with those in business attire.

Wolfgang Puck is located in the Ontario Mills mall (where the 15 and 10 freeways meet). The phone number is (909) 987-2299. For a group of eight or more, reservations are recommended.