Located in the worst part of Colton, right by San Bernardino, Sima's sticks out like a sore thumb amidst the numerous hangover- central menudo factories populating the area. Serving continental cuisine and numerous German beers, it's not what you'd expect to find.

For an appetizer, I tried the Crepes Franz-Josef ($4.80) - stuffed with ragu of chicken meat, mushroom, and tomato in cream sauce. Tasty. For the seafood lover in you, they've got Coquilles St. Jacques ($4.80) - scallops in fine white wine cream sauce, French bread and butter.

I didn't get to try any of the main course salads we ordered because my dining partners - dining feudal lords is more like it - publisher Bill Anthony and Inland Empire Television News anchor Joe Lyons ate them all. I can only assume that this indicated that they were very good.

For entrees, the Chicken Tropical ($8.95) can do you no wrong. Check this out: it's chunks o' chicken in a spicy curry sauce with Mandarin oranges, coconut, raisins, bay shrimp and pineapple pasta. Can you say "extraordinaire?"

The Filet Mignon Pizzaiola ($13.95) is an 8-ounce filet, topped with tomato, onion, bell pepper, garlic, vegetables and pasta. It was good, but if you come to Sima's, don't waste your time on the steaks; go to Claim Jumpers or something. If you want filet, then you're gonna die when you try the Filet Goulash Stroganoff ($12.95) - chunks of beef filet in a sour cream sauce with diced pickles over pasta. This is one of those rare dishes I have experienced throughout my quarter of a century in which a restaurant is actually able to cook a dish better than my own mother. I swear to goodness, this has only happened like three times, ever.

Sima's dessert list is something to drool over, but unfortunately, that's all I got to do since Bill and Joe devoured their desserts like they were in the Donner Pass party. Oh, sure, they shoved the last scraps my way, but desserts are like beer: you don't consume the bottom.

Sima's is located at 801 N. La Cadena Drive in Colton. You better call (909) 370-4326 for reservations because the place is kind of small.

Robert Bledsoe is producer of the Inland Empire Television News' weekly "Restaurant Review" segment, airing Thursdays.