by Joe Lyons

Cajun versus Creole. Gumbo versus jambalaya. Do you know the difference?

The Arcadian French from Canada relocated to New Orleans and brought with them a taste for things spicy.

The slave quarters around the Louisiana plantations had developed a cooking style of their own, using what was available including bell peppers and onions. Both took advantage of the seafood in the area, especially cat fish.

At Shelly's, in the Virginia Dare Center in Rancho Cucamonga, they use the terms interchangeably, as do most people. In fact, Shelly's has what they call Cajun Creole gumbo. They do not, however, call themselves a Cajun or Creole or New Orleans-style restaurant. It would only confuse things since they also have New England clam chowder and Hawaiian Mahi Mahi on the menu.

But, they do list a series of "Creole Cajun Specialties" including Cajun blackened catfish ($15.95), Cajun andouille jambalaya ($14.95) and crawfish ettouffe ($16.50). My personal favorite is the Cajun blackened chicken for $15.50. While I think it is a little pricey for two chicken breasts, I found the spices to be just hot enough - without causing pain. "Blackened," by the way, refers to a technique of searing in a hot iron skillet. I have been ordering the blackened chicken ever since Shelley's opened some 12 years ago.

Shelly's also has a menu list of "Shellfish N' Classics" which includes char broiled shrimp ($14.95) and scallops n' mushrooms ($15.50).

The appetizer list continues the delta style with fried Cajun catfish-fin-fingers with Cajun sauce for $6.95 and Cajun BBQ alligator with Cajun spices and Cajun hot pepper sauce for $8.95.

Shelly's entrees include steaks and BBQ ribs but you can get your steak or prime rib blackened for an extra $1.50.

The Crescent City Cafe, located in Montclair, leans heavy on the New Orleans tradition. Chef William Waller hails from there and the menu is as traditional as our local tastes will allow, including a listing of poboy sandwiches. Here the "Naw-lins" gumbo ($5.75 a bowl) starts with a roux' and a file' and features chicken, shrimp and sausage. The jambalaya ($9.75) also has chicken, shrimp and sausage but it is a creamy rice dish, not a soup, like the gumbo.

Crawfish etouffÚ is not only spelled differently here, it is priced lower at $12.95. The fried catfish ($8.99) is crisper here, but if you ask, you can get some lemon butter to dip it in.

Crescent City appetizers include Crawfish popcorn ($5.75) Blackened crab cakes with a jazzy sauce ($5.75) and crab meat stuffed mushrooms for $5.50 with a Bernaise sauce.

One of the highlights here is the "Josephine". This is a red snapper stuffed with creamy seafood on a bed of Creole sauce with red potatoes and veggies for $13.95.

All entrees at Crescent City are served with "lagniappe". This is pronounced "lan-yeÚ" and it means something extra. It is a little snack dish that you didn't order - a New Orleans tradition.

Shelly's and Crescent City both feature jazz on the weekends and both are opened for lunch and dinner. While I found Crescent City more true to the culinary traditions of the old south, I have a special place in my heart for Shelly's because I've eaten there for many years.

Shelly's at Virginia Dare is located at Foothill and Haven In Rancho Cucamonga. Adam is your host. Call 909-944-9337 The Crescent City Cafe is at 9395 Monte Vista Avenue, in the restaurant corner by the Montclair Plaza. Your Hosts are Michael and Chef William Waller. Call 909-482-0566.

Joe Lyons is the regular contributing restaurant critic for the Inland Empire Business Journal. He also is co-host of Bill Anthony's restaurant review on the Inland Empire TV News.