Last time it was a romantic getaway in Riverside - today it's the Ontario Airport Marriott Hotel. Designed as a business hotel, it has a complete audio-video conference center, the area's longest running sports bar and name-brand pizza.

I check into the three-room Presidential Suite, courtesy of General Manager Jeff Brown, who is also the head of the Ontario Convention and Visitor Bureau. He assures me that the "President" is out of town, so it's OK to stay.

The suite has a large office, or kitchen or party room - depending on your needs. The central living room features a TV with Nintendo adapter, a fireplace and the warm feel of wallpaper. The kingsized bedroom has a large bathroom attached, with a stand-up shower and a jacuzzi tub.

I start with beer and appetizers to go with the game on ESPN. They are out of the first two beers I ask for, so I take the Samuel Adams Boston Lager ($3). For game nibbles it's Calamari rings (do squids come in circles?) and Mozzarella Marinara, deep fried in patties, not sticks. Very tasty ($4.75 each).

Dinner is served at a real dinner table, not the little card table smaller rooms come with. The Caesar salad ($3.25) is not prepared table-side, but it's very nice - except that mine includes the core of the lettuce head. The Cobb salad ($8.25) is not ground up - like the Brown Derby designed it to be - and it actually has field greens like a garden salad. Oh, well.

There are two entrees. I always order my prime rib ($17.95) done medium so I expect it to be a little on the dry side, but it's thick and delicious. Unfortunately the horsy sauce is really salty. The baked potato is better than a lot that I've had in downstairs restaurants at other hotels. The charbroiled filet mignon ($19.95) comes right apart. It's as soft as a marshmallow and comes with Bernaise sauce.

Wine with this feast is Antinari Chianti Classico Riserva 1993 ($22). There couldn't be a better choice to go with the meat.

Dessert is carrot cake and Double Devil, which is the Marriott's version of brownie in ice cream with hot fudge ($4.25 each). Of course, anything with hot fudge that's not served for breakfast is great. The carrot cake is a bit dry, but I ordered it for the outstanding cream cheese frosting anyway.

The last of the chianti comes with me to the bathtub with the water jets. My blood is warmed and thinned at the same time. Could anybody be more relaxed? This suite may be for CEOs on expense accounts or for big hospitality parties, but it has provided me with a place bigger than most apartments and a better meal than the cheese and cracker party tray which I'm sure has been here before me.

Don't let the business atmosphere of the Ontario Airport Marriott Hotel fool you. Room service in the Presidential Suite can be as pleasant and relaxing as any place you may have imagined.

One thing: do not pour the complimentary shampoo into the jacuzzi! You'll be cleaning suds out until breakfast comes knocking at the door.