Although the Macaroni Grill is a chain, the new Rancho Cucamonga location gives the feel of a real "mom-and-pop" operation. The tables are covered with white butcher paper and a pack of crayons sits in the center, along with a bottle of olive oil and a bottle of Italian mineral water. Waiters and waitresses sing grand opera - or something close to it. And our resident ex-New Yorker, Bill Anthony, claims that the menu is the best he's seen this side of San Francisco's North Beach. (Please note that San Francisco is geographically west of the Inland Empire).

Here at Romano's Macaroni Grill appetizers can be an entire meal. Take for example the Brushette Mista, which is toasted Filone bread topped with eggplant ragu and smoked scamorza cheese, mushroom trifolati, shaved reggiano cheese and fresh diced tomatoes and basil ($6.25). Then there is the Funghi alla Giglia. That sounds like the title of an "X-Files" episode, but it is actually grilled Portabella mushrooms with caramelized red onion and grilled polenta ($6.95).

Entreés included the fantastic Fettuccine with Chicken Strips and Italian Sausage ($10.25). This was one of the dishes that came home with me. After all, who can finish an entire serving of fettuccine in one sitting?

There was also the Scampi alla Romano, which is jumbo shrimp - a classic contradiction in terms - simmered in a rich garlic butter and served with pasta ($11.75). This dish also went home with me, but when I opened it up, there was nothing inside but pasta. Someone had eaten all of the jumbo shrimp!

Even dessert was enough to fill me by itself, Totta di Cioccolata. It's a chocolate cake covered with warm chocolate ganache sauce and whipped cream. It is worth the trip all by itself.

The wine list proved to be modest but efficient.

Reservations are not required and there is a lot of space in the warehouse-style dining room, but it wouldn't hurt to call ahead. We went on a blustery rainy Monday night and they were already half full, but you are guaranteed to not be half-full when you leave Romano's Macaroni Grill.

One last thought: Do not look for macaroni; do not look for a grill.

Romano's Macaroni Grill is located at 10742 Foothill Blvd., just east of Haven Avenue, in Rancho Cucamonga. The telephone number is (909) 484-3200.

Joe Lyons is news anchor for "Inland Empire Television News" and participates regularly in its Thursday restaurant review segment.