The Tastes and Tapas of Sevilla

 

by Joe Lyons

 

I have spoken before here about tapas.

 

If you have not been paying attention, tapas are those delightful little Spanish dishes, not unlike appetizers, that have recently come to the U.S. from Europe. Although many restaurants are now serving them, Sevilla makes them special.

 

Sevilla has several Southern California locations, based out of San Diego. The Riverside facility is remarkable because as you enter it you would have to believe that it is an extenuation of the Mission Inn, just down the road.

 

In fact, the nature of the yellowed turn-of-the-last-century look is more coincidence than connection. The rest of the decor is bare brick, wrought iron and full wall windows to allow you a look at all of the other activity in what has become a new restaurant row.

 

The first thing to notice on the menu is the “V” next to all of the vegetarian dishes. Don’t be intimidated. They are all good and if you are vegan (or dating one) this will place Sevilla high on your list. Also, despite my raving on about the tapas, regular dinner items are available on a “prix fixe” arrangement.

 

(I spoke recently with noted restaurateur Charlie Palmer about fixed price dining and he sees it as a good thing that encourages people to enjoy a full restaurant experience, rather that just ordering the entree and a cup of coffee.)

 

But let me tell you more about the tapas. They can be made of just about anything edible, and at Sevilla, that is what you can find. Egg and potato tart that is filling but remarkable. Mushrooms in balsamic vinegar, artichoke hearts, a truly remarkable potato pie.

 

There was also the garlic soup. OK, so you may want to enjoy this alone or with someone who has seen you at your worst. Still, it is strong and tasty, with a poached egg in the middle of it. I did not ask why there was an egg there. I just enjoyed it.

 

Next we got into seafood. Shrimp, the great lobster seafood crêpe, calamari, either marinated or breaded and fried. Then there were the several styles of paella, including the paella Valenciana.

 

Lastly came the dessert tray. You know those dessert trays that you usually see with half a dozen choices, and you never know which one to pick. There is no such problem here. Sevilla has half a dozen treats and you get them all. Pass them around. Take a bite and share with your guest … or not!

 

You will notice that Sevilla is more than just a one-room dining establishment. There are private dining rooms, a wine closet, and a nightclub, which doubles as a private lunchroom. (The Inland Empire Ad Club makes frequent use of it.) There is also an outdoor dining patio for when the weather permits.

 

As for entertainment, there is a tango show and a flamenco show. There are also plans for an occasional cigar dinner.

 

Sevilla also likes to put together special holiday menus that consist of more than just traditional foods. They did this for Thanksgiving and they have special plans for Christmas and New Years Eve. You might want to give them a call.

 

To be honest, Sevilla is almost too fancy and too special to visit two or three times a week, but for special occasions, lunch or dinner, it is one of Riverside’s most unique experiences.

 

And Riverside is developing a reputation for unique dining experiences.